{"id":29140,"date":"2016-11-02T11:33:31","date_gmt":"2016-11-02T16:33:31","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/languagelog.ldc.upenn.edu\/nll\/?p=29140"},"modified":"2016-11-02T11:50:32","modified_gmt":"2016-11-02T16:50:32","slug":"the-mystery-of-mouthfeel","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/languagelog.ldc.upenn.edu\/nll\/?p=29140","title":{"rendered":"The mystery of \"mouthfeel\""},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Helen Wang writes:<\/p>\n<p style=\"padding-left: 30px;\">I have a question &#8211; what's the etymology of the English word \"mouthfeel\"? In the last few weeks in the UK I have heard the word \"mouthfeel\" several times, spoken very naturally as though it's an established English word. I was surprised because I remember k\u01d2ug\u01cen \u53e3\u611f (lit. \"mouth-feel\") as being \"untranslatable\" or an \"awkward translation\". So I looked up \"mouthfeel\" online to see when this direct translation made its way into English. It even has a <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Mouthfeel\">Wikipedia entry<\/a>! But no mention of k\u01d2ug\u01cen \u53e3\u611f or any etymology. It seems to have just appeared in English &#8211; earliest usage in the 1930s.\u00a0 See <a href=\"http:\/\/www.barrypopik.com\/index.php\/new_york_city\/entry\/mouthfeel\">The Big Apple, \"Mouthfeel\"<\/a> (4\/10\/12) by Barry Popik.<\/p>\n<p style=\"padding-left: 30px;\">So I tried looking up k\u01d2ug\u01cen \u53e3\u611f in Chinese and found it was not as ubiquitous as I'd remembered. My very quick and basic search gave the impression that k\u01d2ug\u01cen \u53e3\u611f might be a translated term in Chinese, most examples being related to drinks such as wine or tea. I wondered if you knew more?<!--more--><\/p>\n<p>Already from what Helen tells us, it seems that this expression \"k\u01d2ug\u01cen \u53e3\u611f \/ mouthfeel\" is anchored deeply neither in English nor in Chinese.<\/p>\n<p>Let's start with English.\u00a0 The OED's first citation is 1939,\u00a0 <em>Jrnl. Inst. Chem. Great Britain &amp; Ireland<\/em> (Feb. 62):<\/p>\n<p style=\"padding-left: 30px;\">Such properties as tenderness in meat, crispness in biscuits, smoothness in chocolate,..may be included in the ugly but apt expression \u2018mouth feel\u2019.<\/p>\n<p>Judging from this citation, \"mouthfeel\" first arose in English in the 1930s, but where did it come from?\u00a0 I can't help but saying that it sounds like translatese to me. There's a certain awkwardness to the word that has even led more than one commentator to call it \"ugly\".<\/p>\n<p>On his blog, Barry Popik talks about a \"'mouthfeel' backlash that began on food blogs in the 2000s\":<\/p>\n<p style=\"padding-left: 30px;\">A strong condemnation appeared in a May 17, 2005 post titled \u201cThe Cliche Project: Words and Phrases Food Writers Should Stop Using\u201d on the blog <a href=\"http:\/\/ablowtothehead.blogspot.com\/2005\/05\/cliche-project-words-and-phrases-food.html\">A Blow to the Head<\/a>:<\/p>\n<p style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"><i>\u201cMouth feel.\u201d Do I need to explain this one? It\u2019s the worst phrase ever invented, not to mention one of the most over-used in food writing. It evokes the most disgusting imagery to me and at the same time makes me giggle.<\/i><\/p>\n<p>See \"<a title=\"Permanent link to Six words\" href=\"http:\/\/languagelog.ldc.upenn.edu\/nll\/?p=2477\">Six words<\/a>\" (7\/23\/10) &#8212; last couple of sentences in the o.p., and a bit in the comments, hearkening back to a comment to \"<a title=\"Permanent link to Word rage wins again\" href=\"http:\/\/languagelog.ldc.upenn.edu\/nll\/?p=1573\">Word rage wins again<\/a>\" (7\/12\/09).\u00a0 The word \"mouthfeel\" (or \"mouth-feel\") has appeared on Language Log (or in citations from Language Log) a few hundred times going all the way back to around 2007, usually in connection with word aversion.<\/p>\n<p>Despite the squeamishness over \"mouthfeel\" in some circles, it does have its advocates, as can be seen from the mag called <a href=\"http:\/\/www.mouthfeelmag.com\/\">Mouthfeel<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>If \"mouthfeel\" evinces unnaturalness in English, what about its counterpart in Chinese?\u00a0 Is it possible that English \"mouthfeel\" was borrowed from Chinese k\u01d2ug\u01cen \u53e3\u611f?<\/p>\n<p>The simple answer is no, that is not possible, since \"mouthfeel\" is already in English from the 1930s, whereas k\u01d2ug\u01cen \u53e3\u611f, with one problematic exception in 1945 I know of that I'll discuss below, doesn't show up in Chinese until decades later.<\/p>\n<p>K\u01d2ug\u01cen \u53e3\u611f is not in C\u00ed yu\u00e1n \u8fad\u6e90<i> <\/i>(\"Fountain of Words\"), a well-known dictionary of word origins published in 1979.\u00a0 Nor is k\u01d2ug\u01cen \u53e3\u611f in\u00a0<span class=\"m_2100962041781562594st\">H\u00e0ny\u01d4 d\u00e0 c\u00eddi\u01cen (HDC) (Unabridged Dictionary of Sinitic), which indicates that it does not have much time depth.<br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p>Quick searches through a few large databases fail to find much other than k\u01d2u g\u01cen \u53e3\u611f being used as a phonetic speller (\u53e3\u611f \u5207) in a couple of places in the Kangxi Dictionary (1716), which suggests that it wouldn't have been thought of as a word at that point.<\/p>\n<p>In terms of lexicographical resources, perhaps the most telling piece of evidence about when k\u01d2ug\u01cen \u53e3\u611f (\"mouthfeel\") became widely accepted as a fixed term in Modern Standard Mandarin (MSM) is that it doesn't appear in successive editions of Xi\u00e0nd\u00e0i H\u00e0ny\u01d4 c\u00eddi\u01cen \u73b0\u4ee3\u6c49\u8bed\u8bcd\u5178 (Dictionary of Modern Chinese) &#8212; the standard, official desk dictionary of MSM &#8212; until 1996 (p. 724a).<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/books.google.com\/ngrams\/graph?content=%E5%8F%A3%E6%84%9F&amp;year_start=1900&amp;year_end=2000&amp;corpus=23&amp;smoothing=3&amp;share=&amp;direct_url=t1%3B%2C%E5%8F%A3%E6%84%9F%3B%2Cc0\">Google Books Ngram Viewer<\/a> generates the following graph for \u53e3\u611f.<\/p>\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/books.google.com\/ngrams\/interactive_chart?content=%E5%8F%A3%E6%84%9F&amp;year_start=1900&amp;year_end=2000&amp;corpus=23&amp;smoothing=3&amp;share=&amp;direct_url=t1%3B%2C%E5%8F%A3%E6%84%9F%3B%2Cc0\" name=\"ngram_chart\" width=\"500\" height=\"200\" frameborder=\"0\" marginwidth=\"0\" marginheight=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p>The graph suggests that k\u01d2ug\u01cen \u53e3\u611f first appeared in print before 1975, and possibly as early as 1950. It also suggests that usage of k\u01d2ug\u01cen \u53e3\u611f has been increasing steadily and markedly since the mid-1970s.<\/p>\n<p>Similar growth in usage can also be seen in <a href=\"https:\/\/www.taiwan-panorama.com\/en\/Home\/About\">Taiwan Panorama (TP)<\/a> articles.\u00a0\u00a0 TP is an international, bilingual magazine that showcases the political, social, economic, and cultural dimensions of Taiwan.\u00a0 In the four years 1996-1999, k\u01d2ug\u01cen \u53e3\u611f appeared 15 times in TP.\u00a0 By contrast, it appeared as many as 90 times in the four years prior to Oct. 2016.<\/p>\n<p>By 2012, the <a href=\"http:\/\/lwc.daanvanesch.nl\/messages.php?word1=%E5%8F%A3%E6%84%9F&amp;user_province=&amp;user_city=&amp;user_gender=\">Leiden Weibo Corpus<\/a> returns 915 hits, so k\u01d2ug\u01cen \u53e3\u611f is clearly an integral part of Chinese vocabulary by that year.<\/p>\n<p>The earliest attested occurrence of k\u01d2ug\u01cen \u53e3\u611f with the meaning of \"feeling in the mouth\" (though I think not yet meaning \"mouthfeel\") is to be found in the venerable <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Shen_Bao\">Sh\u0113n B\u00e0o <\/a><span lang=\"zh-Hant\">\u7533\u5831 (Shun Pao \/ Shen-pao \/ Shanghai News), one of the first Chinese newspapers, which lasted from 1872-1949.\u00a0 This occurrence is found in issue no. 25,592 (July 1, 1945) where there is a discussion of various grains available in Shanghai and mention is made of their <\/span><span lang=\"zh-Hant\">different qualities as they are perceived k<\/span><span lang=\"zh-Hant\">\u01d2ug\u01cen sh\u00e0ng x\u012bnl\u01d0 sh\u00e0ng <\/span>\u53e3\u611f\u4e0a\u5fc3\u7406\u4e0a (\" tastewise and psychologically\").\u00a0 As can be seen from the translation I have given, I don't think k\u01d2ug\u01cen \u53e3\u611f here can properly be construed or rendered as \"mouthfeel\", but it is an impromptu occurrence within an ad hoc six character expression to match <span lang=\"zh-Hant\">x\u012bnl\u01d0 <\/span>\u5fc3\u7406 (\"psychological; mental\").\u00a0 It is not a lexical item meaning \"mouthfeel\".<\/p>\n<p>Comparing the data from English and Chinese sources, it is impossible that \"mouthfeel\" was translated from k\u01d2ug\u01cen \u53e3\u611f, but rather that, in all likelihood, the latter was calqued upon the former.<\/p>\n<p>So where did the English expression come from?\u00a0 My initial impulse was that \"mouthfeel\" had a very German flavor to it.\u00a0 Moreover, \"mouthfeel\" conveniently corresponds precisely to German \"Mundgef\u00fchl\" (how something feels in your mouth).\u00a0 Unfortunately, German etymological dictionaries aren't helpful in determining the origin of \"Mundgef\u00fchl\", because the word is (or at least appears to be) a transparent compound.\u00a0 If the enormous Grimm has been kept up to date, we might get some information on \"Mundgef\u00fchl\" there.\u00a0 Otherwise, I call upon readers who are familiar with German electronic corpora to take a peek in them to see if they can find relatively early examples.<\/p>\n<p>Most German speakers I asked about \"Mundgef\u00fchl\" tell me that they never heard of it or that it sounds odd to them.<\/p>\n<p>The fact that the expressions for describing the various characteristics of mouthfeel listed in the <a href=\"https:\/\/de.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Mundgef%C3%BChl\">German Wikipedia article<\/a> on \"Mundgef\u00fchl\" seem mostly to be translated from their English equivalents suggests that the word \"Mundgef\u00fchl\" itself may be calqued from English.<\/p>\n<p>How about French?\u00a0 Surely the French must have extensive vocabulary resources for describing mouthfeel, and perhaps they even have an expression for mouthfeel.\u00a0 Would that be \"sensation de bouche\"?\u00a0 I don't know.\u00a0 When I asked some French speakers about mouthfeel, a typical reaction was:<\/p>\n<p style=\"padding-left: 30px;\">I have never heard this rather ugly word and, so far as my wife and I know, there is nothing comparable in French. But then neither of us are into wine-tasting&#8230;.<\/p>\n<p style=\"padding-left: 30px;\">Maybe it's because it is part of my anti-elitism that I don't like often snobbish wine-tasting groups. I would never join such a group (though my older brother has&#8230;). I like wine, but I don't like to pay outrageous prices for \"the best\". So that people like that invent a word which, well, shows the genius of English for inventive words also shows a kind of elitist sensuality &#8212; that explains my reaction to it as ugly&#8230;.<span id=\"m_2100962041781562594result_box\" class=\"m_2100962041781562594short_text\" lang=\"fr\"><\/span><\/p>\n<p>In my quest to determine where \"mouthfeel\" may have derived from, I turned to Japanese to see if there were a comparable expression.<\/p>\n<p>Indeed there is:\u00a0 kuchiatari \u53e3\u5f53\u308aor \u53e3\u3042\u305f\u308a certainly exists as a natural vocabulary item referring to the texture of food or the qualities of a beverage in the mouth.\u00a0 Kuchiatari is normally written in kana now, although there are plenty of examples with \u53e3\u5f53\u305f\u308a or \u53e3\u3042\u305f\u308a. The comprehensive <i><a title=\"Nihon Kokugo Daijiten\" href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Nihon_Kokugo_Daijiten\">Nihon Kokugo Daijiten<\/a> <\/i>from Shogakukan gives the oldest appearance as 1628, which would suggest it's not a translation from Western languages, at least. Later it takes on the second meaning of \"impression from external sources, feeling of words directed at one.\"There is also shitazawari \u820c\u89e6\u308a (lit., \"tongue-contact \/ touch\"), but it is less common and is used more for solid food.<\/p>\n<p>Then there is shokkan<i> <\/i>\u98df\u611f (lit., \"food-feel\"), which is just \"food texture,\" and hence a bit different. So is nodogoshi<i> <\/i>\u5589\u8d8a\u3057 (lit., \"passing through the throat\"), to which various splendiferous adjectives are attached in beer commercials.<\/p>\n<p>Interesting to note, though, that a number of J-E dictionaries give something like \"taste\" as the translation of kuchiatari \u53e3\u5f53\u305f\u308a and reserve \"mouthfeel\" for shokkan \u98df\u611f.<\/p>\n<p>So far as I can tell, k\u01d2ug\u01cen \u53e3\u611f (\"mouthfeel\") does not exist as a lexical item in Japanese.<\/p>\n<p>After all that, right now I have this strange feeling in my mouth that tells me it's time to go have a cuppa.<\/p>\n<p>[Thanks to Richard Warmington, Linda Chance, Frank Chance, Nathan Hopson, Dehuai Yao, Huang Heqing, Mark Liberman, Don Ringe, David Moser, Randy Alexander, Brendan O'Kane, Ines Mair, Cecilia Segawa Seigle, Hiroko Sherry, Heidi Krohne, Steve Platt, and John and Veronique Lagerwey]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Helen Wang writes: I have a question &#8211; what's the etymology of the English word \"mouthfeel\"? In the last few weeks in the UK I have heard the word \"mouthfeel\" several times, spoken very naturally as though it's an established English word. I was surprised because I remember k\u01d2ug\u01cen \u53e3\u611f (lit. \"mouth-feel\") as being \"untranslatable\" [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":true,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[194,222,227,205],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-29140","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-borrowing","category-language-and-food","category-translatese","category-translation"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/languagelog.ldc.upenn.edu\/nll\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/29140","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/languagelog.ldc.upenn.edu\/nll\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/languagelog.ldc.upenn.edu\/nll\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/languagelog.ldc.upenn.edu\/nll\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/13"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/languagelog.ldc.upenn.edu\/nll\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=29140"}],"version-history":[{"count":11,"href":"https:\/\/languagelog.ldc.upenn.edu\/nll\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/29140\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":29174,"href":"https:\/\/languagelog.ldc.upenn.edu\/nll\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/29140\/revisions\/29174"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/languagelog.ldc.upenn.edu\/nll\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=29140"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/languagelog.ldc.upenn.edu\/nll\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=29140"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/languagelog.ldc.upenn.edu\/nll\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=29140"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}